There’s a soul warmth to Unity Diner that hits you as soon as you walk in. Founded in Whitechapel, London, in September 2018 by a group of vegan activists who came together to form the campaign group Surge, the restaurant prides itself on its vibe, as well as its food. The welcome we received from the friendly staff on a recent visit one scorching Saturday afternoon, and the excellent fare, confirmed its excellent reputation.
It’s a bright modern diner and cocktail bar, and the menu has a fast-food feel to it, with small dishes including mozzarella sticks and sweet chilli calamari rings, larger portions such as lobster mac ’n’ cheese, and chicken kale Caesar salad, plus a hefty burger and dirty fries section. Some meals, such as the tofish and chips, are clearly signalled as plant based, but with much of the menu no effort has been made to change the more usual omnivore names. But yes, it’s fully vegan.
I had the tofish and chips, which was a real treat; light, crispy, melt-in-the-mouth batter coated a good-sized chunk of tofu, served with superbly plump chips. While it might present as fast food, it tasted as close to wholesome as this kind of meal can be. My companion spoke highly of her option – the healthier-sounding sweet chilli and lime prawn salad. I rounded it off with an oat latte and a slice of Black Forest cake, which was good, although more like a cheesecake in consistency than the name suggests. Eschewing dessert, my friend declared her pornstar martini a massive success.
Although I didn’t try it myself, an incredibly popular option at the diner was 3D printed Redefine Meat, of which there were several choices. These included a 3D printed filet mignon wrapped in streaky bacon and served with creamy confit jersey potatoes and a side of garlic greens. These are high-protein products made from various sources, including soya, wheat and pea.
The reviews I’ve read suggest this is the current crème de la crème of fake meat products, with a smell and a texture that’s almost too authentic for those who, like me, have that meaty flavour and mouthfeel so deeply associated with animal cruelty that it’s hard to unlink the two. At £26 for the steak, it is not cheap, although if you fancy just trying the concept out, Unity Diner offers a burger version at a more affordable £15. Something for another visit perhaps.
I’m not sure why it took me so long to get here. The reviews are great and the restaurant itself is run on a not-for-profit basis, with all money raised going to an associated animal sanctuary that opened at the end of 2022. Added to this, since I first heard Ed Winters, known as Earthling Ed and one of the founder members of Surge, speak at the charity’s animal rights rally in 2017 here in London, I’ve been a fan.
The videos that he’s posted online over the years, in which he calmly addresses the misconceptions and cognitive dissonance of everyday omnivores, are a study in how to guide people to their own conclusions about institutionalised animal abuse, rather than shove what can be perceived as the extremist ideas of veganism down their throats. Through his matter-of-fact comments, strangers are tripped over their own often poorly thought-through arguments about the importance of meat and the use of animals as commodities, and can become visibly baffled as to why they haven’t thought of these things before.
All straws, takeaway containers and coffee cups at Unity Diner are 100 per cent biodegradable and plastic free. Staff uniforms and merchandise are ethically made (no sweatshops!) with organic cotton and chemical-free vegan ink. And any suitable food waste from the restaurant is donated to be fed to animals who have been rescued from slaughter.
The food is great, served by staff who embody the philosophy of adding positivity to the world, and your money goes to creating a compassionate future for animals otherwise destined for the dinner plate. I’ll be paying another visit soon.
- If you’re interested hearing more from Earthling Ed, his YouTube channel is full of thought-provoking interviews and clips.
Bardo Burner 