Pretty much any kind of food can be reinvented as vegan. Asian cuisine calls out for marinated tofu and crisp, fresh vegetables. Fast food is equally easy to translate into plant-based dishes: burgers, sausages, chips and the like. Pasta has always been a standby for vegans of all ages and cooking abilities, from students on a budget to whole families, from humble ramen noodles to handmade ravioli. But me, what I’ve always missed most, is a damn fine pizza.
Which is why, every now and again, I simply have to visit Purezza, the UK’s first fully vegan pizzeria, founded in Brighton back in 2015.
Award-winning pizza: the one and only parmigiana party
It’s not that vegan pizza didn’t exist before that; it did. It’s just that many of its incarnations were, frankly, distinctly underwhelming.
The aim of Purezza was to change both the reality and the perception of vegan pizza. It certainly managed to do that.
The restaurant quickly built a loyal following thanks to its slow-fermented dough, blistered wood-fired crusts and carefully developed vegan mozzarella, before expanding to Camden in London and later Manchester.
This week I was lucky enough to visit Brighton, and was unable to resist the lure of a pizza. I’m far more familiar with the Camden branch, but the Brighton restaurant is every bit as good.
The One and Only Parmigiana Party really put Purezza on the map. When it was introduced, it reached the finals of a national pizza competition – a remarkable achievement for a vegan dish competing in an omnivore world. It features a tomato base, smoked vegan mozzarella, aubergine parmigiana, crumbled vegan sausage and a dusting of nutritional yeast.
The one with the truffle: also contains tofu, herbs and mozzarella
The One with the Truffle is my favourite and is made with a black truffle base, vegan mozzarella, wood-smoked tofu, wild mushrooms and micro herbs. Add a swirl of chilli oil, and you’re in pizza heaven.
Tomatoes and rocket: the salads are never dull
Alongside them came the deceptively simple Rocket Salad, a peppery tangle of leaves, sweet tomatoes and generous shavings of vegan parmesan. It was fresh, vibrant and the perfect foil to two gloriously rich pizzas.
Purezza by the sea: la dolce vita
Occasionally, I’ve managed to save a modicum of room for dessert, but this time, sadly, it was all about the pizza. I am, however, off to the Camden branch in two weeks, and determined to save that space for pudding. Famous last words!
Asian-inspired food served tapas style: a feast for the palate
Bonsai Plant Kitchen is one of Brighton’s most talked-about restaurants, and it isn’t difficult to see why. What began as a lockdown takeaway in 2021 evolved into a pop-up before opening its permanent home on Baker Street in March 2022. Founded by Dom and Arlo and now led by chef Dominic Sherriff, the restaurant takes its inspiration from the intimate izakayas of Tokyo, the street food of Bangkok and the vibrant flavours of Vietnam. Cooking over traditional Japanese binchōtan charcoal, the result is a menu of Asian-inspired sharing plates that has earned multiple BRAVO Awards and a loyal following.
And just this once, I’m going to let the pictures tell the story.
Yakitori skewers: chewy, ‘meaty’ and flavour-denseAubergine: chopsticks were not enoughDirty rice: crispy onions, mayo and a hint of magic make this comfort food
Ordering is an introvert’s delight. A tick sheet arrives at the table and you choose how many portions of each dish you’d like to share. The suggested three or four dishes per person proved about right, giving everyone the chance to sample a wide range of flavours. Friendly, knowledgeable service kept everything running smoothly, adding to the relaxed atmosphere. The food itself encourages conversation.
A loyal clientele: booking is vital at Bonsai Plant Kitchen
Personal favourites were the various skewers, with the yakitori being particularly delightful, along with the dirty rice and the daily special of tempura mushrooms. We were a table of six and ordered generously across the menu, yet there wasn’t a turkey among them.
An eatery with character: the Japanese influence is reflected throughoutUnderscored with a plum old-fashioned: the pencil is a vital instrument
York has plenty of vegan options, but only three dedicated plant-based eateries. All are very different, but together they show a side of York that’s creative, independent and quietly confident. Whether you’re vegan, vegetarian or simply curious, these are places worth seeking out.
Tea By the Lock
Savoury first: the vegan egg, beetroot, and cream cheese sandwiches followed by scones and cakes
Out in the sticks a little is Tea By the Lock. Close to Naburn lock, and run for the past seven years in a large Georgian Hall by the wonderful Ruth Richards, this is simple traditional home-cooked comfort food in the British tradition. Pastries, cakes, sandwiches…. And a spectacular afternoon tea.
Wide appeal: only 15% of the customers are plant-basedUnder blue skies: popular with strollers and dog walkersStep back in time: an eclectic mix of crockery and artefacts
The task before us was a mammoth one, and we spent three hours trying to tackle this mountain of food.
“No-one ever manages to leave without a doggy bag,” Ruth told us, and we didn’t break the mould.
A palate-cleanser: sorbet and fresh strawberries
Vegan Orchid
‘Duck’ pancakes for two: a popular starter
The Orchid was York’s first fully vegan Chinese restaurant and is without doubt my favourite dining place in the city. The menu draws on Chinese and wider Asian influences, with dishes that are as elegant as they are comforting.
Quirky Bird: a lovely selection of wine to accompany your choice of meal
With a strong focus on fake meats and tofu dishes, this restaurant is popular with herbivores and omnivores alike. Its opening hours are 6-9pm and booking is highly advised.
Junk Soul
Fast food vegan-style: ‘honey’ dripping wings
Located in York’s Spark venue, Junk Soul serves unapologetically indulgent vegan fast food: smash burgers, loaded fries and burgers, earning itself a dedicated following.
With a main branch in Beverley, and churros for dessert, this is a great place for a quick lunch, or to settle in for a longer session.
Spark: set the independent scene alight in York
Built from repurposed shipping containers, Spark has transformed a once-vacant city centre site into a vibrant hub for independent businesses, street food, artists and community groups. More than just a food market, it’s a place where start-ups can test ideas, creatives can showcase their work and local people can come together – all while supporting York’s independent spirit.
Plenty to share: round off your meal with these delicious tiny doughnuts
And so, with three very different plant-based eateries, and many other restaurants offering vegan options, York may be a small city, but it caters well for those looking for cruelty-free food.
Nestled in the shadow of Notre-Dame, close to the banks of the Seine, Le Grenier de Notre-Dame is a welcome find for the herbivore. Parisian summers can be brutal, so stumbling across somewhere cool, leafy and inviting can feel almost as satisfying as the food itself.
This vegetarian restaurant has a wonderfully relaxed feel. Trailing plants hang from the ceiling, giving the dining room a cool, organic atmosphere that offers welcome relief from the tourist bustle outside. There are tables both inside and out. Service was casually attentive, and one staff member even brought over a handheld fan when they saw me wilting in the heat.
Clearly marked vegan options: the menu
The menu is built around traditional French dishes with a predominantly vegan twist, with options clearly marked throughout. Portions are generous without being excessive, and everything felt cooked fresh to order – creative, considered plant-based cooking rather than compromise.
Paris on a plate: a formidable mix of colours and flavours
I chose the seitan escalope. It arrived as a perfectly square, slim slice of seitan with a dark, crisp coating – somewhere between a schnitzel and an escalope, and all the better for it. Alongside were chunky fried potatoes that landed somewhere between chips and roast potatoes: wholesome, comforting and beautifully crisp. Two different salads added freshness and acidity that really brought the whole plate to life.
Not fast food: burger and chips
My companion opted for the lentil burger, served with the same excellent potatoes. The lentil patty had plenty of texture and the vegan cheese melted well, making for a satisfying, hearty lunch.
With the temperature climbing outside, we happily lingered for the best part of two hours, enjoying the cool interior and unhurried atmosphere while sheltering from the blazing Paris sunshine.
A sweet ending: perfect for 39°C heat 
To finish, we ordered sorbet: raspberry and blackcurrant. The raspberry was sweet and vibrant, while the blackcurrant delivered a wonderfully sharp, intensely fruity finish that rounded off the meal perfectly.
Le Grenier de Notre-Dame feels like a genuine discovery – a calm, unhurried spot in the beating tourist heart of one of the world’s great cities. No rush, no shortcuts, decidedly not fast food. If you’re vegan and find yourself in Paris, make a point of seeking it out.
A place to linger and chat: locals and tourists meet
A feast for the eyes: after a long day, this was just what the doctor ordered
Historically, the words vegan and Paris in the same sentence would produce at the very least a wry smile. Beautiful city, stunning bakeries, gorgeous bistros and, so the clichés suggest, approximately zero interest in feeding you without butter, meat, underlined by a baffled shrug from the surly waiter. In a world where HappyCow exists, I had no such worries about Paris.
This blog doesn’t normally cover vegetarian restaurants, but Saravanaa Bhavan is a South Indian institution that deserves an exception. The chain was founded in Chennai in 1981, and now spans over 45 locations worldwide. The Paris branch opened in 2010 and has been quietly feeding vegetarians and vegans ever since; no fanfare, no inflated prices, just honest, aromatic cooking.
The menu is entirely vegetarian, and much of it is naturally vegan or easily adaptable. Think crispy dosas filled with spiced potato, fluffy idli served with pools of sambar and fresh coconut chutney, vada, pongal, and thali platters piled high with little katori bowls of dal, curry, rasam, and sabzi.
Not a turkey in sight: each dish was a delight
Who can resist a thali? Not me or my two companions, that’s for sure, and so three thalis it was. You need to specify vegan, because the menu can be a bit ambiguous, but once you mention the word, the waiters know exactly what you’re talking about. On that topic, our waitress was an absolute delight, and it was down to her that we trusted that the ubiquitous ghee had been omitted, and also that we ordered that second bottle of wine.
What we got felt like a wholesome South Indian meal served with rice, sambar, rasam, breads and a selection of curries.
It’s no-frills in the best possible way. Faux marble tables, copper thali trays, busy waiters, the smell of filter coffee and spices drifting from the kitchen. Located just around the corner from Gare du Nord, it is an ideal first or last stop if you’re arriving or leaving via Eurostar.
An oasis of calm: Itadakizen sits minutes from the bustle of King’s Cross station
Itadakizen is an unpretentious Japanese vegan restaurant, serving top-quality food, simply prepared.
With further branches in Shrewsbury, Paris, and Kyoto, the name – initially quite a mouthful – perfectly reflects the philosophy behind it. Stemming from the Japanese expression itadakimasu, the restaurant embraces a respectful and thoughtful approach to eating and living.
The food is built around seasonal vegetables, brown rice, fermented foods, and soy products, creating dishes that feel both nourishing and deeply satisfying.
A perfect meal for one: the jubako box
On a recent visit to the London branch, we tried the daily special: a beautifully presented two-tier Japanese jubako box. The first tier featured Itadakizen kakiage tempura on rice with teriyaki sauce, while the second included tofu steak, a spring roll, and the chef’s special of the day (in this case, padron peppers with aubergine) perfect for enjoying a variety of flavours in one meal.
I genuinely can’t recommend this place highly enough. I’m off to Paris next month and fully intend to visit their restaurant there too. Watch this space!
Tea by the Lock: eclectic crockery and giant cakes
The only truly modern aspect of Tea by the Lock is its identity as one of York’s few entirely vegan cafés. Everything else feels rooted in another era. Set within the old lock keeper’s complex at Naburn, the place is surrounded by open fields and the rushing waters of the River Ouse.
Step inside and it feels less like a tearoom and more like wandering into a casually curated antique space. There is a strong Georgian and Victorian influence throughout, from the dark-toned walls to the eclectic mix of portraits, paintings and old photographs that line them. The crockery is quaintly mismatched, and an extremely confident calico cat wanders between neighbouring tables. Even the music, at least on our visit, leans into the atmosphere, with soft wartime tunes adding to the sense that time has slowed down. Nothing moves quickly here.
Old school: don’t trust any menu that isn’t written in chalk
Started around seven years ago, the now popular spot has grown into more than just somewhere to eat, regularly hosting events that make full use of its characterful setting. Although we were there for lunch, we were invited back in the evening for a murder mystery night hosted by a local theatre troupe, an offer that felt entirely in keeping with the venue’s old-world charm. There is also space available to rent for private events.
I had fixated on the vegan egg mayonnaise sandwich and the cheese savoury option since browsing the options online the night before, while my lunch buddy had his eye on the breakfast pasty. Unfortunately, it was early spring and not peak season, and the table menu was redundant. On the blackboard behind the counter was a pared-back selection of soup, sausage rolls, and scones. The full menu, we were told, would return in April.
Savoury snacks: cheese scones and sausage rolls
Still, determined not to let it dampen the experience, I decided to embrace the moment and ordered both a sausage roll and a savoury scone, an indulgence that quickly became something of a running joke with the staff. What can I say? I was hungry.
He opted for the home-baked bread paired with a red pepper soup, which was, he said, very tasty. For sure it was the more virtuous choice beside my unapologetic gluten fest.
My two plates arrived, with both the sausage roll and the savoury scone accompanied by a tangy pickle that cut neatly through the richness. It was old-school stodge – dense, baked, deeply comforting and less about restraint and more about rich, satisfying flavours.
We never made it to dessert, but the huge cakes – at least five, of them displayed beneath oversized glass domes – were all classic sandwich-style creations in a variety of flavours. They had that unmistakable rustic, homemade look, the kind that promises generous layers and moistly spongy sweetness rather than delicate refinement.
Pause to smell the flowers: leave the fast-pace of life behind in this vegan cafe
I left happy with the experience, but still a little disappointed by the lack of choice. Next time, and there will be a next time, I want that egg sandwich.
What spinal surgery is teaching me about patience, grief, and healing
Where recovery begins: NHS hospital waiting room
Sometimes, from nowhere, the worst thing happens and there is no getting better from it. Some things simply can’t be fixed. And yet, you still have to get up and keep putting one foot in front of another. I knew this already – but it had been underlined recently in the starkest way by the death of my partner of 36 years.
Which is perhaps why, when my legs began to fail earlier this year, my mind would eventually drift to the darkest possibilities. But that came later; at first there was denial. I told myself it was nothing.
I was spending a few weeks catsitting in Berlin, as part of my search for what my personal future might hold. It was the beginning of January and the streets were thick with compacted snow, the beginnings of layers of ice. They were gritted of course, but I noticed that my anxiety levels when walking on them were heightened in a way they never had been before. I blamed the increasing numbness crawling up my legs on the cold and kept plodding on, aware that a slip could lead to something no one over fifty wants: the dreaded fall.
January in Berlin: a slippery challenge for any pedestrian
But the trek up to my second-floor flat was undeniably becoming more of a struggle by the day until by the end of my two weeks there I was barely leaving the flat. The simple act of lifting my legs had become an almighty chore.
My return journey to England felt like some horrible endurance test, that peculiar state where you know something is deeply wrong but you still have to keep going until the journey reaches its natural end.
So I made it back and three days later I spent 40 hours in the local hospital A&E undergoing a series of tests. I had become something no one wants to be: an interesting case.
When I arrived, I was exhausted to the core. My body simply wanted someone to look after it, and I had clearly failed at the task, so I was ready to hand it over to the professionals.
By this point I could still walk short distances with what might have looked to an outside eye like confidence. A couple of hours later my balance was already starting to go, leaving me more than a little lurchy.
Possible diagnoses were being thrown around almost at random. The main symptom, the numbness, had begun in my right foot and worked its way up to the knee before beginning the same pattern on the other side, eventually reaching my upper left thigh. By this point it was moving at pace, and terms like Guillain-Barré syndrome were being floated with increasing seriousness.
In between seeing doctor after doctor, I sat in the airless neon-lit waiting room, Googling and texting in no particular order. Other patients came and went. By 1am I was exhausted and just wanted to be tucked into the bed they had promised me at about eight that evening.
At 2:30 I was finally under a slim cotton blanket in a room full of recliner chairs, noise-cancelling headphones on and beyond grateful for the cup of tea they eventually brought me before catching a few hours of sleep.
I’d made a new buddy out of our shared trauma during the wee hours, and as we wiped the sleep from our eyes we smiled and shrugged in dazed bewilderment across the now-full room. A tea trolley bearing various familiar cereals appeared, and the porter pushing it was greeted like the best kind of old friend.
Over the next 24 hours I had an MRI, an ECG, numerous blood pressure checks, blood tests, and a nerve conduction study, the one where they send small electric shocks through your nerves while reassuring you that it won’t hurt. That’s as impossible as it sounds.
I have an existing rare degenerative neurological condition which complicated matters but ultimately proved unrelated. And so, still in the clothes I’d arrived in almost two days earlier, I was finally called in to see yet another serious-faced doctor. The MRI, which I’d had to be sedated for to avoid the claustrophobia, had solved the mystery.
My spinal cord was trapped between two vertebrae, inflamed, and deteriorating quickly. I needed surgery soon or things would get worse. The words “spinal surgery” and “double incontinence” don’t leave much of a choice.
So that’s what happened. I was swept erratically into the slow, initially baffling, frustrating but ultimately solid and effective system that is the NHS.
The next day I was an outpatient at a hospital fifty miles from my hometown, sitting with a young Greek surgeon who assured me his name was too incomprehensible to share, so I should just call him Harry. He talked me through the nuts and bolts and screws he planned to plant in my back. I asked for the idiot’s version, and he produced the model of a torso. I would never go through airport security without causing a fuss again.
He told me I’d be in surgery by the end of the week. The next day, having spoken to his boss, he called to say they were going to try a simpler procedure first: a laminectomy at T11/T12 to correct the stenosis causing the problem.
I became oddly protective of my poor little spinal cord as he described how inflamed and compressed it was in such a small space. By filing down a piece of bone and increasing the room around it, he explained, they could stop things getting worse and perhaps even make them a little better.
Again I was quizzed about my control of bowel and bladder, which added to the sense of urgency. This time I was told it would be two weeks, and to keep an eye out for any deterioration. By that point I knew exactly what that meant.
In reality the decompression surgery came four weeks and one day after that first visit to hospital. One operation was cancelled during that time because I had not been told of the importance of stopping blood thinners seven days before spinal surgery.
I tried to relax into the waiting period, using it to settle into my new house and turn it more fully into a home. In reality, though, much of my time was spent poking at my legs. How far had it spread? Was I numb here? Was I numb there?
Google, Google, Google.
The NHS machine had properly kicked into action and I received phone calls almost every day keeping me informed. I went for a pre-op assessment. I spoke to physiotherapists about what might happen afterwards and what help they could offer. My GP was only an app away.
At first I was still trying to walk, but my stamina declined quickly, my balance was shot, and apart from the occasional three-minute trek around the block I became increasingly housebound.
Housebound, anxious, and watching your nervous system misbehave is quite a combination.
I live alone, and despite having family nearby the concept of time began to blur. I slept on the couch, waking each morning to a largely numb lower half and then prodding and pinching to see what feeling I still had. When I was awake I wandered around the house making sure everything was at waist height to minimise the need for bending after surgery, packing and repacking my hospital bag like an overeager expectant mother.
I read every horror story online, haunted the relevant forums, and studied statistics like a mathematician. Having already had one operation cancelled, I assumed it would happen again. Throughout that month-long waiting period it rarely crossed my mind that things might actually be okay.
I’m now on day 18 after the surgery.
The call eventually came, despite my quiet conviction that it would somehow be cancelled again, and the system that had felt so slow and uncertain suddenly moved with surprising efficiency. I spent two nights in hospital. The operation itself went smoothly, I’m told, although at the time I was far too busy surrendering to anaesthetic and morphine to form much of a judgement.
The first few days afterwards were not elegant. Dignity disappeared entirely and pain became a fairly dominant feature of daily life. But morphine and exhaustion have a way of smoothing the edges of things, and before long I found myself in that curious territory that follows any crisis: the moment when you realise you have survived the worst of it.
Your chariot awaits: helping to put one step firmly in front of the other.
Recovery, it turns out, is a strangely tentative business. Improvements arrive in small, almost suspicious increments: a little more strength here, a little more feeling there, a walk that lasts a few minutes longer than the day before.
Some days I test my legs the way I once poked at them in fear, checking whether the numbness had spread. Now I’m looking for something different – signs that things might be returning rather than disappearing.
Grief taught me something difficult about life: sometimes the worst thing happens and there is no getting better from it. That knowledge doesn’t disappear simply because a surgeon has created a little more room for a struggling spinal cord.
But day by day, almost imperceptibly, things are shifting. A little more strength here. A little more feeling there. For now, that seems to be enough to keep me moving forward.
The Butterfly Lovers: lepidopterists and foodies alike are welcome
It was a January cold snap in Berlin when I discovered the The Butterfly Lovers. This beautifully-named restaurant opened in 2021, making it a well-established spot in the thriving Mitte plant-based scene. Having lived in London for years I’ve been spoiled for choice for vegan Chinese options – think Tofu Vegan – so my standards were high.
Rich flavours: the wontons are as good as they look
The temperatures were below zero, and every step through the icy snow-filled streets felt precarious. I plodded on and the trudge was worth it. From outside, the large windows glowed warmly, giving a glimpse of the calm interior. Inside, the space is cosy and modern, the soft light making the wooden tables and subtle décor feel immediately inviting.
The Butterfly Lovers is a top-rated vegan Chinese restaurant, known for its creative plant-based takes on traditional dishes like Sichuan chicken and sweet & sour duck. The menu promises bold flavours, fresh ingredients and beautiful presentation.
I arrived early and already a few diners were scattered around. When offered a choice of seat, I instinctively went for the invisible solo diner option and picked a low stool at a table for two. A kindly waiter came over almost immediately and suggested I might prefer a table for four with one of the more comfortable chairs. Hell yes!
Spicy Szechuan: is there such a thing as too much tofu?
For my starter, I had the wontons in sweet chilli soy sauce, filled with what tasted like minced smoked tofu, and they were superb. I was worried it wouldn’t be enough, but it was perfect, particularly in the context of the next dish. My main was the Szechuan tofu pot, which genuinely surprised me with its inventiveness. It was spicy without ever being overwhelming, with a mix of different tofus – including tofu knots, my first time seeing them in a restaurant. Some had unravelled into something resembling noodles, and it took me a moment to work out what I was eating, but the slightly chewy texture was unmistakable. The portion was enormous, so as voracious as my appetite normally is, even I was defeated.
The gentle jazz, excellent service, and cosy setting made for a relaxed eating experience. I’d recommend booking ahead, as it gets very busy, but arriving at a quieter time, as I did, lets you savour the food at your own pace.
Oat cappuccino: a chance to linger 
I lingered over a cappuccino before leaving, a rare pause in Berlin’s usual fast-food pace. Stepping back into the winter slush, I was already plotting a return visit in a season when the outdoor terrace might be an equally appealing option.
With a couple of chores completed on a cold Berlin January morning, and compacted snow crunching underfoot, I switched on HappyCow and headed for the nearest eatery. The Sanctuary sounded ideal: a vegan Italian patisserie, just nearby in Mitte, offering a balanced mix of sweet and savoury delights.
Walking inside I was momentarily speechless at the array of treats in front of me. Vegan options in Berlin are easy to find, but this felt overwhelmingly special. I chose a takeaway box of four pastries, picking a mix of sweet and savoury.
Aubergine parmigiana: a mini pizza
The savoury options – a cheese and ham croissant and an aubergine parmigiana pizzetta – were exceptional. The pastry was perfectly crisp, while the fillings were soft, rich and flavourful. I particularly loved the aubergine, with its deep, tomato-filled crust topped with a sprinkling of baked vegan mozzarella.
Time for dessert: crunchy, creamy and flavour-rich
The sweet offerings were equally indulgent. A plant-based cannolo siciliano was a rare treat: a crisp, bubbly tube filled with soft, whipped custard. The pistachio cream doughnut was a delight too – split down the middle, filled with layers of light and dark crème pâtissière and topped with crushed pistachios.
The icing on the cake: a hot latte on a freezing day
Drawn in by the smells and warmth more than I expected, I huddled over a frothy oat latte in the small but perfectly Berlin-cool café section. Sufficiently revived, I then wrapped up and stomped back out into the winter frost.