In an omnivore world, we vegans can sometimes find ourselves overwhelmed by the sheer choice in dedicated restaurants. No such problem at Salzburg’s GustaV, where the menu is refreshingly simple: main meal of the day, soup of the day, sandwich of the day. Perfect for those times when you just don’t want to think.
There’s a wonderfully traditional Austrian feel to the place, which opened in 2015 as Salzburg’s first fully vegan restaurant. The owner, Denise Hagopyan, had a idea: to offer fresh, sustainable and often organic ingredients, served in a welcoming setting to anyone who simply enjoys good food.
You walk into a tiny café with just two small wooden tables and one larger communal one. That sort of enforced closeness would normally have me heading straight back out of the door, but the owner has such a warm, easy manner that it somehow works.
The meal of the day was a courgette-based stew, which my companion thoroughly enjoyed. I went for the sandwich of the day: a cheese-like spread with pesto and salad. Both dishes felt completely in keeping with the place – uncomplicated, satisfying and packed with fresh, local ingredients.
We hadn’t intended to stay for cake, but perhaps got sucked into the relaxed atmosphere. Mine was a traditional moist sponge rippled with berries and topped with a thick cream frosting, while my fellow traveller chose the chocolatey raw cake, which had a pleasing contrast of rough and smooth textures. Both were accompanied by damn fine oat-milk cappuccinos.
Salzburg’s vegan scene has grown considerably over the last 11 years, but it’s easy to see why GustaV has remained such an integral part of it. Several obvious regulars popped in during our visit, adding to the sense that this is as much a neighbourhood café as a destination for visiting vegans.
Bardo Burner 